Another Item Ticked Off My Bucket List

Do I actually have a bucket list? I would have said no, but as I reflect on the last few months I see that in fact I am realising ambitions I wasn’t even aware of! And this was brought home to me very clearly on our way back from Brittany to Switzerland, when a dream I had had for over sixty-five years came true. I had given up hope of this happening, but my dear daughter and son-in-law knew about it and fixed things for me.

Years ago in England, when I was about 16, we had a French mademoiselle as assistante in our school, who told us about the châteaux of the Loire and showed us photos of some of them. For some forgotten reason, the one that captured my imagination was Azay-le-Rideau. I don’t remember why – perhaps the name, perhaps the fact that it was moated and had turrets, perhaps simply that the photos of this château were superior to those of Chenonceau or Chinon. But I promised myself that one day I would see this castle for myself – after all, I was intending to study French so there was every reason to expect that this would come to pass.

For many years, as I visited various parts of France and even drove past the Touraine region on my  regular journeys between Switzerland and Brittany, it just didn’t happen. And in the last few years, since I no longer can drive a car myself, I resigned myself to the fact that I would never get to the Loire valley in person.

Of course, my daughter was aware of my long-held dream and had told her husband. These are two of the kindest, most generous people I know, and much to my delight, after two very enjoyable weeks in our holiday home, they arranged a stopover in Azay-le-Rideau on the way back to Switzerland.

The little village was a very pleasant surprise: quaint, charming, very clean and well-tended, with ancient stone houses, it’s the perfect complement to the grandeur of the French renaissance château that lies at the end of the main street. The weather was perfect, and the château was everything – and more – than I had hoped for, so I wasn’t disappointed after my long wait.

With the sun shining down on it, the gardens in full bloom with spring flowers and magnificent swathes of wisteria  draped around outbuildings and walls, it looked even more beautiful than in photos.  We arrived in good time to do a complete tour of both house and park, as well as poking about in the gift shop, where we bought some books, and enjoying a snack in the café.

Our hotel was also a bonus. Only a couple of hundred metres from the castle gates, it used to be the village school, with the main building for the boys and a smaller house built at the back of the yard for the girls. Our rooms were in the girls’ school. The hotel didn’t have its own restaurant, but there were enough in the neighbourhood for this not to be a problem, and we dined extremely well at le Côté Cour, right next to the castle gates.

After dinner, a stroll around the village in the moonlight was the perfect finishing touch to a lovely day. How do you feel when you finally achieve something you have wanted to do for so many years? Satisfaction is a small word, too small to express the pleasure and joy these few hours brought me. I have my photos to keep the memories alive and some books to peruse repeatedly that will keep me happy for a good while. Perhaps contentment – like the cat that got the cream – would be more apt.

What else is on my bucket list? Well, as I said before, I didn’t even think I had one, but I am beginning to realise that I do. And I have an old school-friend coming to stay with me at the end of this month, who has also been nurturing a dream that we may be able to turn into reality. I’ll let you know if we do.

Matilda’s Exorcist

Do you believe in ghosts? Being British, my heritage almost forces me to accept their existence as we have so many haunted houses, castles and other edifices. I personally know at least two former neighbours of my mother’s who swear their houses are haunted: in one case there’s an unpleasant, chilly presence that can move right through you if you get in its path, and the other takes the form of a little girl who comes out of the fireplace and crosses the room then vanishes. Both of these houses were built in the nineteen-seventies on the site of former buildings, so the spooks have probably been around a long time. Here’s a little story I wrote about someone who bought an older house that seemed to contain more than the house agent had promised.

Matilda’s Exorcist

Matilda knew as soon as she moved into her Victorian semi that Gussie would lose no time in finding a pretext to visit. That’s HER, she thought, as the doorbell rang and a bright halo shone through the knobbly glass of the front door. Gussie – given name Audrey, but nicknamed Gussie as a small girl because of her predilection for gooseberries – was crowned with a mane of crinkly red-gold hair that twisted itself into flame-like tufts all over her head. Unkind people likened them to carrots, but Matilda preferred to see Gussie’s head as permanently on fire.

She opened the door and Gussie exploded into the hallway. Gussie was a lover of rainbows, an enthusiastic knitter who never wasted a scrap of yarn and everything she knitted had to be worn, so she was clad in layers of polychrome stripes and fair isle sweaters, cardigans, legwarmers and scarves.

“Here,” she said, thrusting a shapeless parcel into Matilda’s hands, “Literally a housewarming present for you. These old houses can be pretty draughty, so I’ve made you something for cold winter evenings.”

Matilda opened the parcel to find an enormous soft woollen shawl that rivalled Joseph’s coat of many colours.

“Perfect,” she laughed, “You are a genius!”

Gussie stood in the tall narrow hallway and looked around. The floor still had its original diamond patterned tiles and there was wooden wainscoting on the lower half of the walls. The stairs rose straight ahead, with the old oak banisters and newel post polished over the years to a rich patina by many hands.

“Keeping it like this or what?” she asked.

Matilda shrugged her shoulders. “I’d like to keep it, but it’s pretty tatty. Can’t really call it shabby chic, can I?”

“It just needs a bit of TLC, that’s all. I’ll come over and help you if you like. There are some fantastic wallpapers around nowadays, we can soon brighten it all up.”

Matilda managed not to shudder at the thought of what her friend meant by “brighten it up” and muttered something about taking time to decide. They moved on into the living room – Matilda disliked the word ‘lounge’ especially in the context of a Victorian house – which was already looking neat and tidy in spite of her only having moved in a fortnight earlier, and then on to the kitchen at the rear. Gussie was impressed and enthusiastic.

“You’ll have to find yourself a husband and start raising a family here,” she cried, gazing through the kitchen window onto the long mature garden beyond. “This isn’t a house for a single person!”

“I may not stay here very long,” said Matilda quietly, as she put the kettle on.

Gussie turned and gave her a long inquiring look.
“Okay, spill the beans. What’s the problem? Already found a potential hubby and he wants Bauhaus?”

“No, nothing like that!” Matilda smiled wanly. “I don’t really know how to explain, but I think the house is haunted.”

Gussie’s ears pricked up and the carroty flames on her head stood to attention.

“Get away! What makes you think that?”

Matilda paused and went back to making tea and putting out biscuits. They sat down and Gussie waited as patiently as she could. Matilda poured the tea, picked up her cup and heaved a sigh.

“Noises,” she said. “Maybe it’s a poltergeist?”

“Or an ancient Victorian plumbing system?” suggested Gussie.

“No, not the plumbing. It’s footsteps, mostly. In the evening sometimes I hear footsteps going up the stairs, but there’s nobody there. And it feels chilly. It’s eerie, weird – makes my hair stand on end.”

“Mmh, intriguing. Have you tried talking to the Presence?”

“The Presence?”

“Your invisible lodger. Have you asked its name or anything?”

Matilda laughed. “That would never occur to me in a thousand years!”

“Oh, you should always try to make contact with the Unseen,” said Gussie earnestly. “If it’s trying to manifest itself, you need to know who or what you’re dealing with.”

“And the spirit or ghost or whatever it is, it’s going to tell me the truth? You believe all that crap?”

“No harm in trying. It might be a former occupant with a message for you. Do you know anything about the history of the house? Have you got a Ouija board?”

“No, and I have no intention of getting one either. Nor am I going to find an exorcist with bell, book and candle or whatever they use in this high tech world. But it creeps me out, and I don’t know whether I can put up with it much longer.”

Gussie thought about this, her mind leaping about in all directions as she considered possible rational and not so rational causes of the mysterious sounds. She put down her cup, and went back into the hallway, looked up the stairs, walked to the front door, then called out, “Mind if I poke about upstairs?”

Matilda smiled to herself. Trust Gussie to find an excuse for looking over the entire house. “Go ahead,” she called back, “But be careful, I haven’t finished unpacking and it’s all a jumble up there. And if you want to look in the attic, wear a mask, it’s dusty!”

Matilda had drunk nearly all the tea and eaten most of the biscuits by the time Gussie returned to the kitchen but Gussie wasn’t interested in tea and biscuits.

“I have an idea,” she said, putting her cardigan back on and wrapping a scarf around her neck. “I’ll be back soon.” And she left.

Matilda shrugged, shook her head and went back to her unpacking upstairs. Gussie! she thought, never changes! Just have to wait and see what she comes up with next.

As it happened, she didn’t have to wait very long. Just as she was putting her clothes into the wardrobe she heard that familiar softly creaking thump that had been giving her gooseflesh since the first evening she moved in. She froze, her blood ran cold, and the hairs on the back of her neck stood up. Then the sound stopped. She listened intently a while longer, but all was quiet again. She shivered and realised her hands were shaking.

“No,” she murmured, “No way! This is a lovely house but I can’t live with this, not knowing what THAT is. It’s no good.”

At that moment the doorbell rang. Matilda opened the door and Gussie stepped inside.

“Gosh, are you okay?” she asked in a concerned tone. “You’re white as a sheet.”

Matilda told her what had happened, and Gussie nodded vigorously. 

“Is there any tea left?” she inquired, “Or a drop of something stronger for you? You look as if you could do with a dram or two. Let’s go and sit down again and I’ll tell you what I found out.”

Making tea calmed Matilda down, and the two women sat down with their cups in the comfortable living room.

“Right,” declared Gussie. “I’ve solved the mystery. Your ghost. The spooky footsteps.”

She paused for effect and Matilda waited on tenterhooks.

“Know where I’ve been? Next door! Your neighbours are lovely, by the way. Not exactly young and dainty, and far from featherweight, but they didn’t mind me bursting in and let me try out my experiment without a murmur. They seemed to think I was in some TV show or something, where they play crazy tricks on people. They kept asking about the cameras.”

Matilda rolled her eyes. How would she ever be able to face her neighbours that she hadn’t even met yet? But Gussie was in full spate.

“Anyway, I could tell from your face as soon as you opened the door that it worked. You heard the footsteps, didn’t you?”

Matilda nodded weakly.

“That’s it, then! It was me you heard!”

“What?”

“Yep, me! These old houses – semi-detached. Your neighbours’ house is a mirror image of this one. So their stairs are against that same wall as your stairs are. They let me go up and down, and oh boy! Do those stairs creak! The wall between the two houses isn’t as thick and solid as the exterior walls. And that couple are built like battleships, they’re elderly, so the stairs are an effort. They only use them to go up to bed in the evening and come down in the morning, and you are probably already out at work in the morning so you only hear them in the evening. That’s your heavy-footed poltergeist! Mr and Mrs Peabody! A very substantial spook, I must say!”

Matilda’s face, that had been ashen, was now as red as a beetroot.

“Did you tell them I thought my house was haunted?”

“Of course not! I wouldn’t do that to you! No, they thought I was doing some kind of spoof, and asked me if I was Ronald Macdonald’s sister.”

“What did you say?”

“I said it was a secret, and only they and I knew the truth!”

“Do they know you’re my friend?”

“Don’t worry, that’s all part of the secret! You can go ahead and get acquainted without them suspecting anything. They are really very nice people. I’d soundproof that wall if I were you. Oh, and get your front door insulated too, there’s an awful draught!”

From that day on, Matilda lived happily in her cosily refurbished Victorian semi-detached house, wrapped in her multicoloured granny blanket when the winter storms raged, safe in the knowledge that a little extra insulation on the shared wall was as good an exorcist as any.

Back in the Swing of Things

There’s no longer any excuse for my absence from this blog except for my laziness. I owe you my very best wishes for the New Year and for Easter, now all in the past, and an update. So thank you for your patience, those of you who are still with me!

My personal situation is excellent: my wonder and gratitude know no bounds! I have settled into my new abode very satisfactorily and am enjoying not only living so close to my family (especially my dear daughter and son-in-law) as well as the convenience of having this neat little town practically on my doorstep.

I have been busy with various forms of needlework – crochet and tapestry – so although I haven’t been blogging, my hands haven’t been idle.

March Hare tapestry picture for my granddaughter’s birthday on 20 March

Healthwise, everything appears to be in order as far as the cancer goes (though I’ll know for certain in a week or so, after I’ve seen my surgeon again for a check-up). I have found a delightful dentist almost next door, and a GP in the practice on the ground floor of my own apartment block, plus a podiatrist and an ophthalmologist about 10 minutes’ walk from my flat, so that covers my health needs from top to toe.

With regard to the cancer, one of the things that I wanted to tell you about at the beginning of the year when I was undergoing radiotherapy but couldn’t get into this blog to post, is how I came to be diagnosed. Maybe someone can learn from my experience.

Like most women in western society nowadays, I had had regular mammograms – in my case, up to the age of 75. However, in Switzerland mammograms are not generally offered to women over the age of 70 unless there is an obvious reason for them. I could feel no lumps or bumps in my breasts and I had no discomfort, so my GP saw no point in referring me for a mammogram.

Although I noticed that my left breast was no longer quite as spherical as the right one I was unaware that this could be any cause for concern. At 80+, lots of bits of my body are no longer what they were a few decades ago so I simply put it down to “natural senile decay” (to quote the death certificate of my great-great-grandmother). However, after about 12 months I decided to consult my gynaecologist about this minor deformity. She frowned, palpated, could feel nothing suspicious, but decided to do an ultrasound scan just to be sure. And yes, there it was: You have breast cancer.

At the hospital a couple of days later, a CT scan confirmed that I did in fact have two quite large tumours, neither of which could be felt as a lump. I emphasise this, because I had been doing regular self-exams but didn’t realise that a change in shape was also significant. I am probably not the only person ignorant of this. Women and girls, please take note!

I am remarkably fortunate. My tumours were contained, and only one of my sentinel lymph nodes was affected so the mastectomy seems to have solved the problem. I had no pain either before, during or after surgery, and I have an extremely neat scar as a souvenir. Radiotherapy was prophylactic (and not at all unpleasant) and I haven’t needed chemotherapy. Yes, I have to take Letrozole, a hormone treatment that is probably affecting my bones, but I’m also taking extra vitamin D and my osteoporosis is being monitored. These tablets might also tend to make me put on weight, so I’m having to be careful!

Last month I acquired a new artificial silicone boob that matches my missing breast in size, weight and texture, and fits into a pocket in my new specially designed bra. It’s rather a peculiar object that almost seems to have a life of its own and I have nicknamed it Aggie after St Agatha, a martyr whose breasts were amputated and is the patron saint of breast cancer patients. She is portrayed with her two (very pretty) breasts neatly placed on a tray in front of her. Since I also now have a second special falsie that fits into  a pocket in my new swimsuit, I have been very tempted to take a photo of myself with my two prosthetics in a similar pose – but maybe that isn’t in very good taste so I’ll spare you that item of gallows humour. My health insurance contributes towards some of this expense, but it has still made a hole in my budget.

Right now, I am enjoying a holiday with said dear daughter and son-in-law in our house in Brittany: a treat, and yet another blessing for which I am most grateful. This has been a second home for us since 1991, and there have been many subtle changes over the years. Not least is that practically all our original neighbours have passed on, and their homes either sold to strangers or inherited by descendants that we don’t know. That’s sad, because this was always a friendly little cul-de-sac, and it was a pleasure to meet up with the neighbours at each visit. My daughter is gradually becoming acquainted with the newcomers, but I miss my old friends.

View from my bedroom window
Sunrise – from my bedroom window

We are re-visiting old haunts, noticing how “progress” is altering old familiar places, and discovering new attractions. The view from my bedroom window is still pretty much the same (trees have grown) and we still all feel very much at home here. I don’t know what I have done to deserve all this, but I am certainly not complaining! Life is good!

Sunset – view from our verandah

Owha Tanas Siam!

(Sung repeatedly to the tune of “God Save The King”)

That was a very brief absence, I must admit!

And feeling foolish, I also admit, as I had actually solved the puzzle of the disappearing dashboard without realising it. Of course it was a browser problem. My Safari is out of date. Presumably since 31 December 2023. So, I tried loading my blogs into Chrome – and Abracadabra! The dashboard and all other hidden bits and pieces are back. Hurrah! WordPress, you are forgiven!

So please dry your tears, I’m not deserting you after all. I’ll get one of the younger members of the family to assist me with backing up my laptop before I attempt to update my Safari, so that nothing gets lost. And I intend to be back very soon with more ramblings and photos and “stuff”.

Cheers!

Right on time for the English Mothering Sunday, the daffodils planted by my daughter and son-in-law came into bloom on my balcony. Thank you!

Farewell?

When I began this blog in September 2011, I was blithely unaware that within a few months my seemingly steady, stable world was going to be changed forever. This blog – without being a journal – turned into a kind of chronicle of a vital 12 years in my life, recording events and my own evolution or transition through my seventies into quite a different person in my ninth decade

Have I simply exhausted the amount of free space in the blogosphere offered by WordPress, or have the WP algorithms picked up on the fact that a particular chapter of my life has now closed? WP is seemingly placing obstacles in my way, preventing me from sharing my newest chapter with you. Even the first draft of this post disappeared into oblivion as soon as I pressed Publish.

Whatever the power that’s blocking my way forward with WP, I confess that I no longer have the patience to attempt to untangle the cyber Wirrwarr. I am stepping outside and may be some time, to quote Titus Oates. However, unlike that brave man, I am not walking off to my death in an Antarctic snowstorm, but am stepping out into a bright, sunny springtime of fresh fields and pastures new (new to me, anyway). Sadly, I can’t take you with me. I’d like to, I enjoy and appreciate your company, and if at some point WP miraculously restores access to my dashboard on my Mac, I may be back. It might be simply a browser issue, in which case that could be sooner than any of us think. I remain optimistic, as usual.

Over the last 150 months I’ve published 758 posts of varying quality, so I am not leaving you empty-handed. Hopefully, as you ramble through these pages, you might find something to make you smile or think. You can still leave comments, which I can read and reply to, so the lines of communication are not completely closed.

But from me, this is – no, not goodbye, but so long! Auf Wiedersehen, au revoir, arrivederci, hasta la vista … or as we say in the English Black Country: Tarra a bit!

Challenges – not Problems!

Wondering where I‘ve been? Why I haven‘t posted for two months? If I‘m even still here?

Well, I have been trying but haven‘t been able to get into my WordPress account to publish anything. I suppose it‘s a software problem, and it‘s been very frustrating as I tried different browsers on my laptop but was never able to get anything but a blank page when I clicked on Write or Reader.

A light-bulb moment a few minutes ago, however, prompted me to try from my iPad. I don‘t like writing anything but e-mails on my iPad, but hey presto! Here I am back in write/ edit mode, and I can read all the blogs I‘m subscribed to, so it looks like a WordPress binge is looming. Thank the Lord for my iPad!

Many years ago, a PR specialist told me: There are no problems, only challenges. So as I‘m an optimist anyway, I shall take that attitude with WordPress.

First of all, let me reassure you that I have started the new year (not so new anymore) in a very positive way. Healthwise, I feel very well indeed after completing 15 sessions of radiotherapy with a really lovely medical team. No ill effects apart from a few days of fatigue and some itchy red skin that soon cleared up with the appropriate creams and ointments. Next stage in my breast cancer saga will be getting a custom-made prosthetic to replace the fiberfill falsy I‘m currently wearing, that doesn‘t always stay where it‘s supposed to be!

i am loving my new home and the proximity to family, my spacious new flat and exploring this neat little town. Frauenfeld and the surrounding countryside are truly an insider tip, off the usual Swiss tourist routes but well worth visiting. Spring is definitely in the air, and I‘m looking forward to longer, balmier days.

There have been some challenging moments in the past few weeks for my best friend, who is currently in hospital having a hip replacement following a nasty fall, but even so it looks as if divine providence has been – and still is – at work. We are praying for her recovery and improved general health, as she is also facing all the stress of moving house in the coming months

if any of my readers have had similar experiences with WordPress, and were able to solve the enigma of the disappearing Write/Edit mode, I would be very grateful. No pictures in today‘s post, although I do have a lot to share with you. I just have to figure out how to insert them.

For the time being, then, this is just a quick hello-goodbye, and I hope to be back soon!

God rest ye merry, Gentlemen (and Ladies)!

The shortest day has been and gone and hey presto! It’s almost Christmas! – expected of course, but it always seems to arrive suddenly! So before the fat lady sings and 2023 disappears down the drain of oblivion, let me wish you all a very blessed Christmas and a happy, healthy new year in 2024. 

As an update on my last post, I can report that all my boxes are now unpacked and a place has been found for everything (though I don’t always remember exactly what’s where), so my home is now definitely feeling like the place where I belong. I also solved my dining chair problem with a set of four Louis Ghost chairs – second-hand but still in very good condition

My play-room is making satisfactory progress as I try out various combinations of furniture and furnishings. After spending a night here, my best friend reports that the spare bed is very comfortable, so I also have that seal pf approval. 

As for my health, my surgeon is satisfied with my progress over the past month, I don’t need chemo and will be receiving 15 sessions of radiotherapy in January just to make sure I’m OK. I am feeling fine.

I have been enjoying the privilege of having a very helpful daughter and son-in-law on my doorstep, for which I continue to offer up daily thanks, and appreciate the view from my living room window, from where I have been able to chuckle at the antics of the Kindergarten class in the first snow of the season, and wonder at the beauty of the sunset. 

I have also been treated to a very special spectacle, as a family of storks (who are supposed to have migrated to Africa long ago, but for some reason decided to stay) have taken up residence on the ridge of the church roof and often roost there overnight. I did a double-take the first time I noticed them, thinking somebody had climbed up and installed some weird Christmas decorations, but then one of the them turned round, while another one flew in circles above its kinfolk who threw their heads back and made the clattering noise that gives them their German name of Klapperstorch. 

Christmas storks – that’s a first for me! Two days ago there were half a dozen of them, flapping wings and vying for space on the narrow ridge, much to the amusement and amazement of my 3-year-old great-granddaughter who happened to be on Facetime at that moment. I hope they return for a live performance when she’s visiting Granny’s House on Christmas Day! 

No, I’m not dreaming of a white Christmas this year, but I am looking forward to quality time spent with my family: hopefully for a brief moment we can, in the comfort of home, experience a little bit of peace and goodwill to men.  

Somebody Up There Likes Me!

The view from the living room in my new apartment

How do you express gratitude? The simple words “thank you” don’t seem anywhere near sufficient to cover the immensity of the gratitude I’m feeling right now, so full I could burst! My cup runneth over.

“Count your blessings” – they are too numerous to count, but I’ll have a go!

I’ve been very busy over the past months, but what could have been total chaos and disaster did in fact dovetail in such a serendipitous way that I could almost write a book about it.

Most of July and August were devoted to sorting stuff and packing cardboard boxes. September was a very sociable month filled with visits to family and friends, and October saw me back home packing up in earnest with a view to moving at the beginning of November. New furniture – beds and bookcases etc.- ordered from IKEA arrived and were assembled at the beginning of October.

Then came a little bombshell with the unexpected diagnosis of breast cancer and urgent scheduling of hospital visits and tests, dominated by the need to decide in which hospital I should have my surgery and follow-up treatment. It made sense for it to all be at the same place, and since the hospital in the town I was moving to was only 5 minutes’ drive from my new home (as opposed to long train and bus rides to two different hospitals from my home in Bad Ragaz), it made even more sense to go there. This is also a brand new building with state-of-the-art equipment and an excellent reputation. I had ultrasonic, CTI and MRI scans and my surgery was scheduled for 14 November.

My Dear Daughter organised the hire of a van on 4 November, my son-in-law and two strong young men (my granddaughter’s partner and his pal) transported me with all my boxes and furniture to my new home, where DD directed operations until I arrived.

My strong young moving men

Amazingly, in 8 days I was able to unpack most of my things and find places for them, place furniture, pick out and place ornaments and pictures, buy a few extra items, adjust curtains that had been languishing for decades in my basement but now returned to glory, and which two of the tall men in the family put up for me (so much easier for them than for me, as I would have to climb up on stools and ladders to do it) and generally make my new apartment shipshape before I headed off to the hospital. 

My lovely son-in-law painted my ceiling a serene light blue and some curtains I made 30 years ago (& still going strong) link it to the pale grey and turquoise in the carpet. The mirror is a new purchase, and the secrétaire was among the inherited furniture that came from my son-in-law’s mother’s home. Seascape paintings by one of my favourite Breton artists.

Inherited Biedermeier table is beautiful, but I need to find the right chairs
I chose the smallest room for my bedroom, as all I do there is sleep. The curtains are at least 35 years old, but they go so well with my heirloom bedspread that I crocheted during covid lockdown in Brittany 3 years ago.

The surgery went well, and after four days of pampering I was discharged. What a joy to return to a cosy home with the enormous added benefit of being located directly across the road from my daughter and son-in-law! Such a huge blessing! And what absolutely perfect timing! 

Yes, I still have a few boxes of books to unpack, but I’m in no rush and need to get more IKEA bookshelves to put them on in my spare room – or as I prefer to call it, my play room. This is currently serving as a dumping ground for whatever overflow there is. Nothing much can go into the basement storage area yet because unfortunately we discovered a damp area there due to a leak from the lift shaft. This has only appeared since the autumn rains and some boxes of books put there in August have been affected by damp and mould, but that’s the only hiccup we have encountered. In any case, I’m not supposed to be lifting and carrying anything heavy right now, so I have a good excuse for leaving it all piled up. I can close the door on the mess and ignore it! I’m still not quite sure where everything is, but am gradually getting into a routine and getting used to being here. I’ll update you as I sort out the furniture and arrange the room.

As for my health, I am feeling very well and pain free after my mastectomy. More treatment will follow, but that’s another post. For the moment, I just want to share with you all my great joy and gratitude for the way everything has gone and is going. I am so blessed! Cue the Hallelujah Chorus!

Sightseeing Around Poitiers and Surroundings

Frescoes and painted pillars in the Abbaye de Saint Savin

In my last post I included several photos of the charming little town of Saint Savin in the département of Vienne, renowned for its magnificent Abbey. The Abbey has extremely well-preserved mediaeval frescoes on both ceilings and walls, for which it has been declared a World Heritage site by Unesco. 

What took my breath away, though, were the strikingly painted pillars that pick up the same pastel hues as the mediaeval images and rather than attempts to imitate the effect of marble, as is so often seen in such churches, these have beautiful geometric – even slightly psychedelic – patterns painted on them. I haven’t been able to find out anything about these, as all the guides online and in the bookshop dealt exclusively with the frescoes, so if anyone has any information about these exquisite pillars, please let me know.

Altar in Abbaye de Saint Savin

I visited several churches and abbeys during this fortnight, not least of which was Fontevraud where I was so overwhelmed by the majesty of the place, with its huge white space, that I never even thought to take any photos and just bought the guide book. There was also a remarkable exhibition of etchings by Rembrandt in the adjoining museum that was well worth the time spent there examining each one and reading all the blurb. Fortunately, my hosts were also doing the same, so no pressure or rush to get through it all in a limited time.

Another abbey that impressed me was in Ligugé, a very small town with a long history. This abbey was the very first monastery in the western world, founded by St Martin around the year 360. St Martin became the first bishop of Tours, much against his will, and the story goes that he tried to escape by hiding in the poultry coop among the geese. The geese, however, gave him away by cackling loudly and indignantly (geese were used as watchdogs by the Romans because of this propensity to give loud warnings whenever a stranger approaches) and he was dragged off 243 km to Tours to be anointed bishop. In many countries, St Martin’s day (11 November) is still associated with a goose (see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Martin%27s_Day ). The other famous story about St Martin is that he shared his cloak with a beggar, who later appeared to him as Jesus  Christ, which accounts for the many statues showing him slicing off a large portion of his cloak. 

Chapelle de St Martin, Ligugé

As there are still a handful of monks in the abbey, most of it is closed to the public, but in the last century the monastery choir became famous for its beautiful Gregorian chants although sadly, as they age, the monks are now losing their voices. Inside, the church is unexpectedly modern and minimalist but with excellent acoustics. Still standing nearby is a very small chapel, allegedly on the site of the chapel where St Martin taught the catechism. 

Ligugé was also home to the French novelist Joris-Karl Huysmans, whose decadent novel “A Rebours” made a deep impression on me in my youth. He had a very attractive house built there, but lived in it for only a very short period.

Façade, Notre Dame church in Poitiers

In Poitiers itself, the incredibly intricately carved façade of Notre-Dame church is stunning, situated in a very attractive cobbled square with buildings from every century since the Roman occupation nearby. Oh yes, the Romans constructed a huge arena here, older than and not much smaller than the Colosseum in Rome! After they left, the locals recycled much of the stone into their own homes, leaving very little of the original building standing but you can still see the location of the walls by the curvature of the streets.

Partial remains of the Roman Arena in Poitiers
If the stones are already standing, use them to build your own house!

Two surprising – for me, anyway – discoveries were in the form of statues. The first is the statue of Liberty brandishing her lamp in the Place de la Liberté, a miniature copy from 1903 of the original one offered to New York. The second is in the Police HQ. During WWII, a number of policemen from Belgium were refugees in Poitiers, where they joined the local police force. As a token of gratitude after the war, Brussels Police gifted a copy of the famous Manneken-Pis (one of only 6 authorised copies) to the Poitiers Police. This little boy gets dressed up in a custom-made gendarme uniform on special occasions.

I mentioned in my last post that we had enjoyed some very tasty meals. I can’t fail to sing the praises of Le Lucullus restaurant in the quaint little town of Montmorillon, famous as “la Cité de l’Ecrit” – city of literature.

Homard flambé au cognac – Restaurant Le Lucullus, Montmorillon
Montmorillon

This  hosts a well-attended book festival every June, which grew out of the traditional industry of the town, paper-making. Good books and delicious food in a beautiful setting – Paradise! Le Lucullus is well worth a detour, if you can get a reservation.

Poitiers, la Cathédrale de St Pierre

The last church that I visited in Poitiers was the Cathedral, which left a lasting impression mentally, emotionally and physically: I misjudged the number of granite steps as I entered, and went flying onto my face on the hard stone floor. I was extremely lucky not to have broken my nose, or any other bones for that matter! Two black eyes and a couple of bruises is a small price to pay for such a fall, so I am convinced that my guardian angels were on duty! People were very kind to me, and as this happened on the very last day of my holiday, it didn’t really prevent me from doing any more touristy things. Okay, so I didn’t get to see much of the beautiful cathedral, especially the Aliénor window which had been on my list, nor the museum, but I did get a photo of the façade of the building – before I fell.

Our sightseeing trips were interspersed with quiet days spent at home, taking leisurely walks, reading, watching films, talking and generally relaxing. I can’t thank my hosts enough for their attentiveness, hospitality and generosity: it was an unforgettable holiday. My bruises have now faded, and I have only happy and beautiful memories.

Water under the Bridge … Sixty-four Years Later (to be continued)

Covid, poor eyesight and advancing age have made me a reluctant traveller, but this was a now-or-never journey. It’s three years since the invitation to visit was issued, so high time I went! I finally made it and very enjoyable and worthwhile it has been. Memorable, too. 

The last time my host and I saw each other in person was on the day of our A-level results; we were 18 years old. That was in 1959, 64 years ago! Doors to our future were just opening, and now the greater part of that future is past and many of the doors have closed. I described how we re-established contact in this post  Since then, we have been skyping regularly (in French, much to my advantage) and bonds have been renewed with Barry and formed with his wife, Sylvie.

They live in a village near Poitiers, France. As the crow flies, that’s about 900 km following roughly the same line of latitude as my home in Switzerland, and if I could still drive I’d have gone there by car. However, having no car or chauffeur and being aware that there is no direct link by public transport between my home and the city of Poitiers, I had to find the simplest, least stressful means of making the trip. 

As usual in France, it seems you can’t avoid Paris. I’m not thrilled by the idea of travelling with luggage via Paris, which involves changing railway stations, either by crowded métro or a stop-go taxi racing against the clock through heavy traffic. I did consider catching the high-speed train (TGV) from Strasbourg, but finding suitable Swiss railway connections turned out to be complicated and time-consuming. 

Then my friends explained that I could avoid the nerve-wracking business of changing stations in Paris by flying to Charles de Gaulle airport where I could catch that same TGV running from Strasbourg to Bordeaux. Flights between Zurich and CdG were at reasonable times of day, corresponding neatly with the TGV timetable, so that worked out fine (though CdG still gives me nightmares) and I arrived on the dot at Poitiers station where Barry and Sylvie were waiting to greet me.

Great variety of architectural styles in the old city of Poitiers

Being a tourist is fine, but there’s so much greater value in visiting places with educated friends who are familiar with the local culture, history and traditions and share one’s own tastes. My interest in Poitiers goes back to my student days, when I discovered the poetry of the mediaeval Count Guillaume IX of Poitiers, the first known troubadour and grandfather of the awe-inspiring Aliénor (Eleanor) of Aquitaine,  who became Queen of France and then Queen of England, mother of the kings Richard the Lionheart and John Lackland. Actually finding myself in impressive places where these people had lived and breathed was an enormous source of pleasure for me and the beauty of the scenery, architecture and art was an added bonus. 

Eleanor of Aquitaine

I realised afterwards that I had taken no photos at all in the beautiful Abbey of Fontevraud, as I was too overwhelmed! This is the tomb effigy of Aliénor/Eleanor, reading her Bible to indicate that she was an educated woman (a rare thing in those days!)

Renaissance façade of Poitiers University
Entrance to Poitiers University
Covid instructions in the Mediaeval Dept of Poitiers University
Amazing interior of the Abbaye de Saint Savin
Saint Savin main square

But there were not only sightseeing tours of Poitiers and other quaint, charming and magnificent sites. We shared books and films, walks through the woods and along the rivers, music, laughter, gourmet food, with stimulating conversations and exchanges of ideas. All very relaxed with no pressure. In addition, we skyped with other old schoolmates, again not seen since 1959: a couple who met at school when she was 14 and he was 16, and who have just celebrated their Diamond wedding anniversary (60 years). So much reminiscing and lots of chuckles! 

Statue of Liberty in Poitiers
A walk in the local woods

I returned enriched. 

I also returned with two black eyes, but that’s another story.